Spring/Summer 2019 was many, many things. While the majority of designers continued with the memo ‘you do you’, what united them was their search for an expression of female empowerment.

Running concurrent with the collections, the Kavanaugh proceedings provided the socio-political lens through which the fashion sorority viewed – and, we’ll readily admit, judged – every show!

Heated discussions were definitely had. Celine-gate sparked the white-hot debate about female authorship and agency versus that of the male designers who would define them.

And age-old bugbears such as white privilege, body negativity and ageism looked all the more unacceptable for it – even if diversity and inclusion on the runways was at an all-time high (with behind-the-scenes still very much a work in progress).

The question of how designers envision women, what a woman wears and the image she projects has become a political hot potato. The big takeaway from the season? To value those visions that really are attuned to reflecting our truth in some way so that we can do us.

1. HIPPY MODERNISM

Designers took an escapist turn with the season’s Neo Boho trend. The look is long, languid and sensual, saturated in warm desert and sunset hues at Chloé and Loewe or clashing carpet and tile prints, as at Paco Rabanne and Philip Lim.

With this trend you’ll see amulet jewellery, crochet pieces and raffia accessories, an ode to souvenirs picked up on pilgrimages to Ibiza, Joshua Tree or an ashram in India.

THE LOOK: sun-kissed hues and neutrals, clashing geometric prints, scarf dresses, artisan knits, fringing, crochet shoulder sacks.

2. COLOUR WHEEL TAILORING

The suit is a wardrobe classic (the seasonal appearance of Le Smoking at Saint Laurent is testament to that). It’s evergreen. In this case, literally, with SS19’s new take on the style. This is the season of Starburst suiting that runs the gamut in terms of colour and cut.

Skirts, shorts, trousers and jackets come in bold, bright shades that can pack a punch as a full look, as they were at Chanel and Gucci, or be mixed up with softer hues and dressed down with denim, as they were at Victoria Beckham and Giuliva Heritage Collection.

THE LOOK: colour – subtle and statement – with bold, bright shades, as well as pastels. Blazers are single-breasted, double-breasted, asymmetric-knot-fastened, and the lower half is either relaxed or fitted. Whatever the shape, it’s all about colour.

3. LOW KEY UTILITY

At his debut Louis Vuitton menswear show in June, Virgil Abloh introduced the concept of ‘accessomorphosis’: the transformation of bags and wallets into clothing. This season, everyone from Chanel to Proenza Schouler did a riff on that theme, with boxy car coats at Fendi featuring patch pockets labelled ‘Keys’, ‘Coins’ and ‘Phone’.

Proof that fourth-wave feminism can take designers down unexpected avenues, the thinking behind this trend is, presumably, if you have to multi-task, so should your clothes.

THE LOOK: patch pockets; front-loaded tool belts slung across the body; the mega-return of cargo pants in dusky hues.

4. WONKY COUTURE

Consider this SS19’s antidote to the hoodies and athleisure-wear. Fine tulle, ruffles, balloon sleeves, bubble skirts, swirls of taffeta and duchess satin, sunray pleats and personality-packed volume dresses – for Spring, everyone from Raff Simons at Calvin and Marc Jacobs to Miu Miu and Matty Bovan, made a case for the appreciation of couture dressmaking and craft skills. With its inclusive fabulousness of shape, the Valentino show received a standing ovation and marked the trend at its apotheosis.

The general rule: 50s and 60s era couture gowns reworked as shorter, less precious, more casual pieces. Wear with a pair of trainers and make this work for the every day.

THE LOOK: a devil-may-care attitude to precious, crushed cocktail sheaths; volume dresses, corsages, ostrich feathers.

5. FEATHERY ACCESSORIES

From ostrich to peacock, feathers are the new fur.

6. SQUARE TOES

We’ve been seeing a 90s revival in many ways over the last year, with slip dresses, satin skirts, fluffy accessories and, yes, even frosted lip shades making a come back. But we’ve yet to see this one 90s trope striding back down the streets, until now that is.

Back in the guise of satin pumps and flats at Erdem, giving Regency vibes and in the form of high heeled boots at Cavalli, the square toe is having a renaissance.

7. SWEET VALLEY HIGH

Nostalgia is nothing new, but this throwback to early-Nineties terrestrial television is. This is Fresh Prince of Bel-Air style (no, that isn’t Ashley, with her boxy blazer, XL lapels and clashing graphics at Louis Vuitton). Think back to the word art and swirling graphics of the opening credits of Saved By The Bell and Clarissa Explains It All – but on shirts and skirts at Balenciaga and Versace.

THE LOOK: swirling terrestrial TV graphics in bold, bright shades; pastels clash with paint-stroke prints. The silhouette is top-heavy, with oversized jackets and shirts. The return of key Nineties styles: acid and light-wash denim, and the boxy blazer.

Check out 31 Spring 2019 Fashion Trends from Cosmopolitan.

HOW YOU CAN WEAR SNEAKERS & LOOK DAMN GOOD WITH ANY TYPE OF OCCASION

In case you’ve been living under a rock, your sneakers are meant for more than just the gym these days. Though they got their start as flimsy “plimsolls” meant for working-class holidaymakers and purpose-built footwear designed for athletes, sneakers have become a staple in a every man’s (and woman’s, for that matter) wardrobe. From lifestyle to red carpet to sports, nowadays your sneakers can be an expression of yourself. And today we’re showing you how to do it right.

Sneaker Rules: The Basics

No matter what kind of sneakers you settle on, there are a few basic principles for how to wear sneakers.

Always:

• Buy sneakers that suit your current wardrobe: What good does it do to buy the latest ‘hype’ style if it doesn’t suit your style? Don’t hop on the trend train just because it’s passing through. Choose shoes that complement what you already have, not shoes that require you to repurchase your entire wardrobe. We’re looking at you Yeezy lovers.
• Wear them to the right occasions (don’t go too casual): Sneakers are incredibly versatile, but they’re no substitute for dress shoes. You can get away with sneakers with any off-duty outfit – and perhaps even some casual, unstructured suits – but they’re not meant for every occasion (i.e. weddings). Err on the side of overdressed rather than underdressed.
• Keep them clean: It doesn’t matter how cool your sneakers are, the effect will be lost if they’re not spick-and-span. Proper sneaker maintenance includes washing the laces, eliminating odours, brushing the outsoles, and using shoe trees and sneaker shields.

Understanding Your Sneakers & Trainer Types

Sneakers come in many shapes and sizes these days. From the very basic to the brightest leather, from the minimal to the metal fastenings, there are few rules when it comes to your trainers. With so many options available, it can be hard knowing exactly what’s what and even harder to know what’s most likely to suit your wardrobe and taste.

Luckily, you have us here to make things easier. We’ve put together a How To Wear Sneakers Style 101 guide that should have you acing your footwear exams in no time.

• Basic Sneakers – These are your Converse, Vans, etc., types. Sometimes they come in leather, but they’re typically found in canvas and in basic colours. On the whole they’re generally affordable and easy to wear / clean.
• Refined Luxury Sneakers – They might bear a resemblance to the basic sneakers, but they’re more expensive and often made from suede or leather by brands like Tom Ford, Lanvin & Saint Laurent. These are not something you take to a music festival.
• Classic Sports Sneakers – Think Nike Air Max 90, Reebok Pump, Asics, Tiger and other forms of old school sport greatness. What was once ready for the track and field is now kept safely in a shoe collection at home.
• Current Sport Sneakers – Again, these are your Nike, Adidas and Puma brands, but with modern styling and shapes.
• High-fashion Sneakers – These are the work of brands like Givenchy, Christian Louboutin, Maison Martin Margiela, Diemme and even Giuseppe Zanotti. They’re loud and designed to be noticed.
• High Tech – This special group may not be universally recognised yet, but I hear by dub it “High Tech.”  This is the category for the likes of Rick Owens and other designers who are really pushing the limits of sneaker design.

What You Need To Know To Get The Best Look

Now that you’ve selected your poison, it’s time to actually pair them with your wardrobe. And no, it’s not a case of wearing your one pair of sneakers with any pair of jeans. There’s a fine art in the craft so pay attention.

Check out 5 tips on wearing sneakers with jeans. 

The Basic Classics

Cons, Chucks, canvas kicks… whatever you call them, the basic sneaker is the most versatile casual sneaker you can buy. They work well with denim, chinos and shorts of pretty much any colour and shade.

Where I find guys sometimes get a little unstuck with these types of sneakers is when they wear them to smart casual events or to work when a dress shoe is required. The basic sneaker DOES NOT work for every occasion and should be kept solely for casual situations. Your best bet on top is to run with print t-shirts, gingham shirts or even a blazer for the college professor look.

• Mix with relaxed, slim & skinny denim and chinos
• Keep for casual/street occasions only
• Maintain to ensure they stay clean and respectable
• Best suited to younger men

Refined Luxury Sneakers

 

My personal favourite is the luxury take on the basic sneaker. These beautiful specimens have allowed sneakers to jump from street casual to smart casual without looking like they belong on a teenage boy. They can be worn with tailored trousers, slim denim, chinos and in some cases even casual unstructured suiting.

I tend to avoid wearing them with shorts, as these sneakers are quite often bulky in comparison to the basic canvas sneakers. Keep it refined on top to match the shoe. Basic t-shirts, smart shirts and polos are all great options. For a more distinct look, opt for a shirt with a slim or knit tie, a blazer and some slim denim.

• Dress up, not down
• Start with black, then purchase other colours
• Take extra care with suede and don’t wear it too often
• Try brighter pairs for summer / European holidays

Classic Sports Sneakers

Sneakerheads, unite! These babies started the sneaker revolution that we have today. Jordans, Pumps, 90s – these are your street-going, hip-hop kicks that are just popping with colour. The idea with classic sports sneakers is to find a couple that complement your style and purchase a few pairs in different colours.

Slim- and tapered-fit denim, loose t-shirts (with or without prints) and casual outerwear are your essential staples when it comes to dressing these sneakers. Pair them with chino shorts for an easy win in summer. The key is to find the balance between hip-hop artist and everyday citizen. Some guys like to rock a snap back – that’s up to you. Personally, I like to colour match my sneakers with what I’m wearing on top, to give the look a sense of purpose and cohesiveness.

• Find a few styles you like and stick to them
• Colour match if you can
• Pin roll, or rock with khaki chinos when it’s warm
• Sell them on eBay if you don’t like them

Current Sport Sneakers

Wearing this style of sneaker can have you looking like Jerry Seinfeld if you’re not careful. On the other hand, you can quite easily look like a ‘houso’ (chav) if you pair them with tracksuit pants. As much as possible, stick with sneaker releases that are low profile with a fashionable edge.

Too runnery/sporty and they’ll look bulky and not quite right. Wear these as you would classic sneakers or with gym/running gear on the weekend. Steer clear of denim that’s loose fitting, as it never seems to work. Instead choose slim Nudie chinos or elastic cuff variations. On top, keep it sporty and casual with t-shirts only.

• Avoid all white pairs
• Don’t tuck shirts into denim with these sneakers
• Go for a sporty look to compliment the shoe

High-Fashion Designer Sneakers

Expensive and not for the faint of heart, these top end sneakers are getting louder and more in-your-face every season. For an example of someone who wears them well consistently, look to Kanye West. A common approach to wearing these sneakers matches them with slim denim that’s often gathered at the bottom and t-shirts with open plaid shirts. There’s also the parisian style, which includes long and drapey blazers and singlets that add even more edge to the look. Black denim is a must-own item as well as longer, looser fit t-shirts.

• Stick with blacks, whites and mute colours
• Let the sneakers to the talking
• Denim is your best friend

High Tech, High Fashion

Only a few will dare to wear these sneakers. They’re highly fashion-forward and to me only really work with drapey and long fitting clothing. Stick with black and do as little as possible to draw attention to the shoes – they will do that themselves. Ideally you want people to think that you’re not trying too hard when you wear these types of kicks, so muted attire is best.

• Black, black, and more black
• Go for long and draped style of clothing
• Be prepared for people’s comments

Jackets belong in every petite woman’s wardrobe because a jacket is a go-to garment for both work and weekend wear. Wearing a jacket is also a great way to hide midriff and tummy bulges. To get the maximum style boost from a jacket, petites should look for the jacket features that work best for short women.

1. Choose single-breasted jackets, rather than double-breasted jackets. Petites don’t need extra bulk in their clothing.

2. Pick a classic jacket with a V-neckline. Classically styled jackets that form a V-neckline when buttoned flatter petites because they make us look taller.

3. Buy fitted or semi-fitted jackets to create flattering, shapely lines. Petites can get lost in loose-fitted or oversized jackets.

4. Make sure jackets fit in the bust. You should be able to button a jacket without any gaping or pulling across the bust line.

5. Wear shorter jackets that end at the high hip and flatter most petites by creating the illusion of longer legs.

6. Wear jackets with long sleeves or at least three quarter length sleeves. Short-sleeved jackets are fairly useless.

7. Select jackets made of smooth, rather than thick, bulky fabric in order to create a longer, leaner line.

8. Create the illusion of a slimmer and taller line by wearing jackets with vertical lines and seaming .

9. Avoid patch pockets, no matter where they’re placed on jackets, to maintain the sleekest line.

10. Maximize wearability and create a leaner, taller look by selecting jackets in solid colors without embellishment. If you love prints, you can always wear a print blouse, dress, or skirt with your jacket. Jackets with subtle neutral designs, such as Glen plaid or pinstripes, will also work for petites.

Read about How To Wear A Denim Jacket Like A Fashion Editor.